The Cloister of Paradise: a gem to visit in the heart of Amalfi

There is a place in Amalfi that gives you the chance to get away for a while from the chaos of the town, to find an unexpected corner of peace and silence, with an atmosphere of meditative, almost mystical suspension.

We are talking about the Cloister of Paradise a splendid jewel in the heart of Amalfi, which you really must not miss if you are visiting the town.

In this article, you will find all the information you need to prepare for your visit with an extra gear and a greater awareness of the historical and artistic value of what you will see.
If you are looking for inspiration on how to organise a full day in Amalfi, also read our article on how to organise a full day in town, full of hints and tips.

What you will see inside the Paradise Cloister in Amalfi

Located, like a hidden treasure, inside the St Andrew’s Cathedral complex, the Paradise Cloister was built in 1266 at the behest of Archbishop Filippo Augustariccio.

The intention was to build a cemetery dedicated to the Amalfi nobles.

Its construction, in Arab-Norman style, reflects, in fact, the power and wealth of this maritime city during the Middle Ages: upon entering, you will immediately notice the Arab orientation and influence, evident in the structure, a very clear homage to the strong Arab cultural presence at the time.

The tombs of the nobles, originally placed inside the cloister, testify to the importance of this place as a final resting place for the Amalfi aristocracy. 

As was also the case with Amalfi Cathedral, the Cloister of Paradise has undergone various mutations over the centuries. Remarkable, for example, was the transformation it underwent in the 14th century, when the Basilica del Crocefisso was built inside it, which we will see in detail later.

What you will see during your visit

Coming from the centre of Amalfi, teeming with people and bustling with life almost 365 days a year, as soon as you cross the entrance, you will be struck by the contrast with the outside: a meditative silence, full of peace, that contributes to a mystical, almost surreal atmosphere.

You will notice the play of light and shadow between the 120 columns, surmounted by the characteristic interlaced arches.

In the centre, an enchanting Mediterranean garden contributes to the feeling of deep peace and religiousness, which is mixed with the beauty of the history of the place.

Along the galleries, you can admire the variety of columns and capitals, each with a unique and rich design. 

As you stroll, probably enraptured and ecstatic, between the arches, pause to look at the stone tombs that tell stories of a bygone era.

In particular, your attention will probably be caught by the one depicting the Rape of Proserpine, which tells of the abduction of the goddess by the god of the underworld Pluto, and the one depicting the Union of Mars with Rea Silvia, mother of Romulus and Remus, founders of Rome. 

Both sarcophagi date from the second half of the 2nd century AD.

Continuing along, pay attention to the mosaic-decorated marble fragments, the remains of the cathedral’s ancient amboes: they were commissioned by Archbishop Dionisio between 1174 and 1202 and made by local artists, thus offering a further opportunity to admire the skill and refinement of Amalfi’s craftsmen during the Middle Ages.

Continuing along the route, you will reach the Chiostro’s funerary chapels, each guardian of an artistic treasure. 

Among these, the one with the fresco of Christ Pantocrator from the second half of the 13th century stands out: a solemn and hieratic image of the Saviour dominating the sacred space. Not far away, the chapel with the Crucifixion, attributed to Roberto d’Oderisio, the main painter active in Campania in the mid 14th century, is a work of great artistic and devotional value. 

Finally, you will reach the Basilica of the Crucifix, passing through the aristocratic chapel of the Corsano family, once covered with frescoes, which are now largely deteriorated.

The Basilica of the Crucifix

Hidden in the heart of the Cloister, the Basilica del Crocefisso guards a treasure trove of history and art that is intertwined with the vicissitudes of the maritime city. 

Originally dedicated to the Assumption and later to Saints Cosmas and Damian, the basilica owes its current name to the wooden crucifix that once dominated the high altar.

Its origins date back to the 6th century and its history is marked by tumultuous events and phases of splendour. In the 9th century, the basilica was devastated by the Lombard prince Sicard, who plundered the relics of Saint Trofimena. But the response was not long in coming: thanks to the protection of Pope Leo IV and the help of Duke Manson III, the church was rebuilt and enlarged, obtaining the dignity of metropolitan cathedral in 987.

The original layout, with a nave and two aisles without a transept, is still partly visible, despite the transformations over the centuries. The late 13th century saw the demolition of the left nave for the construction of the Paradise Cloister, while the Tridentine reform led to the demolition of the right nave. The ancient colonnade that joined the basilica to St Andrew’s Cathedral was incorporated into the new partition wall, leaving space for noble chapels.

The last significant intervention dates back to 1931, when a radical restoration freed the building from Baroque superstructures, bringing back the primitive medieval wall system. This intervention, although controversial, allowed the basilica to be admired in its original configuration.

Today, the Basilica of the Crucifix houses the Diocesan Museum, established in 1996, which holds a rich artistic heritage: silverware, sacred vestments, crosses, reliquaries, wooden sculptures and paintings from different periods. Among the most valuable works are the columns, capitals.

Access and tickets

Entrance to the Cathedral costs 4 euros and also gives you access to the Cloister of Paradise.

However, access to the Duomo is free during religious services, offering you a unique chance to immerse yourself in the spiritual atmosphere of this sacred place.

Masses are celebrated regularly at the Duomo, offering visitors the chance to witness an authentic religious rite steeped in tradition. Mass times are as follows:

🔹​ Monday to Friday: 8 a.m. and 7 p.m.
🔹​ Saturday and bank holiday vigils: 7 p.m. (with vespers at 6.30 p.m.)
🔹​ Sunday: 7:30 a.m., 10:00 a.m., 11:15 a.m. and 7:00 p.m.

How to get to the Cloister of Paradise

The Cloister of Paradise is located right in the heart of Amalfi. It is very easy to reach: just walk down the long staircase of the Duomo and enter the ticket office.

Amalfi is the easiest and most convenient town on the Amalfi Coast to reach, as all buses and ferries to and from all other destinations depart and arrive from here.

So, wherever you are coming from on the Amalfi Coast, you can rely on:

✅​ SITA SUD buses, which depart from Salerno approximately every hour, except on holidays, during which the frequency of journeys is halved (in some time slots there is a bus every two hours). 

You can purchase tickets using the Unico App.

✅​ Travelmar ferries: depart from Salerno and stop in Vietri sul Mare, Cetara, Maiori, Minori and finally Amalfi. We advise you to book your ticket in advance, especially if you travel in high season. In any case, always check the actual availability of the service by sea, as particular weather conditions may cause the service to be suspended for safety reasons.

If you are travelling by car or scooter, as well as advising you to drive very carefully along the tortuous SS 163 road, we advise you to park at the Luna Rossa car park, just after the tunnel connecting Atrani and Amalfi. 
You can check the availability of parking spaces in the various car parks in the town of Amalfi, using the INFO PARKING AMALFI website.

Tips 

📣​ Trust the locals: it’s worth investing this small fee to visit this enchanting place. 

The best time to visit? 

Without a doubt, the best times would be autumn and spring, as the climate favours tranquillity and the desire to spend more time.

However, inside the Cathedral and Cloisters, even during the summer months, you will find some refreshment from the scorching heat.

If you enter the Cloisters and the Cathedral, we recommend appropriate clothing: too short dresses and bare shoulders should be avoided, especially if you visit during religious services.