The unmistakable yellow and green majolica dome of the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria a Mare towers over the town of Maiori, a symbolic guardian of that mix of religion, folklore, tradition and artistic beauty that is somewhat of a common thread running through so many attractions on the Amalfi Coast.
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Maiori’s Collegiate Church: symbol of a city and guardian of its traditions
Maiori’s Collegiate Church is linked to the cult of its patron saint, Santa Maria a Mare, which locals celebrate twice a year: the first date coincides with the 15th of August (we also talk about it in our article dedicated to Ferragosto on the Amalfi Coast); the second is celebrated on the third Sunday of November.
The people of Maiori call this second festivity ‘A’ Madonna e’ notte’ (The Madonna by night), because the statue of the Saint is carried in procession precisely at night. Tradition has it that the faithful attend the first Holy Mass at six o’clock in the morning. And since the period of the feast coincides with that of the pre-Christmas preparations, early in the morning the band starts playing a Christmas pastoral along the streets of the village.
But the truly traditional and very heartfelt event, linked to the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria a Mare, is the traditional running of the Madonna, which, on both feast days, is carried by running down the approximately 130 steps separating the Church from the square below.
This is a very special moment of faith, which combines the religious ritual with the folklore typical of our towns. If you find yourself in Maiori on the occasion of Ferragosto or on the third Sunday of November, we advise you to take part, to touch the emotion and participation that is felt and that strongly unites the whole community.
The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria a Mare: history
Founded as a fortress to defend against the Saracens, the structure underwent a radical transformation in the 13th century, taking on the appearance of a church. Legend has it that it was at that time that some fishermen from Maiori recovered an intact and miraculous statue of the Madonna and Child from the sea. From that moment on, the church became the religious heart of the town, taking the name “Santa Maria a Mare.”
Over the following centuries, the church underwent extensions and restoration, shaping itself into the shape we can admire today.
In the 19th century, architect Pietro Valente created a masterpiece of architecture, overturning the orientation of the structure and creating a harmony of proportions that still fascinates today.
The interior of the Collegiate Church is a triumph of art and history. The 16th-century gilded coffered ceiling by Alessandro de Fulco creates a solemn and evocative atmosphere. The monumental organ, with its 1,700 pipes, fills the space with sacred melodies. The crypt, guardian of the remains of Saint Clement, houses the ‘Don Clemente Confalone’ museum of sacred art, rich in works of art that tell of the devotion and skill of local artists.
But the real protagonist is the hemispherical dome, covered with yellow and green majolica tiles that shimmer in the sun. A symbol of the city, visible from afar, it invites visitors to discover the treasures that the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria a Mare holds within its walls.
How to reach the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria a Mare
The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria a Mare is located in Maiori, climbing the 127 steps that start from Piazzetta Raffaele Amato overlooking Corso Reginna.
Continuing along this staircase, you can proceed to the characteristic Sentiero dei Limoni (Lemon Path), a pleasant walk along the ancient path that joins Maiori and Minori and was once traversed by the so-called ‘furmechelle’ (‘little ants’), the lemon transporters.
It is precisely to them that this path is dedicated, winding through the picturesque village of Torre and reaching Minori, amidst quiet little houses and the scents of Mediterranean vegetation.
How to reach Maiori
Maiori is located in a fairly central position and is, therefore, easily reachable by public transport.
You can get to Maiori
✅ by using the Sita Sud bus service: buses leave about every hour from Salerno and Amalfi and stop along all the towns of the Amalfi Coast. You can purchase tickets at any time using the Unico App.
✅ By Travelmar ferries: they depart from Salerno (Molo Concordia) and Amalfi. They stop in Minori, Maiori, Cetara and Vietri sul Mare. We advise you to buy your tickets in advance, especially if you travel during the busiest periods (July and August and weekends).
✅ By car: in this case, always remember to take into account the difficulty of travelling along the SS 163 and the chance of finding traffic along the road, especially in the high season.
If you travel in autumn or on weekdays, moving by car may be doable. However, finding a parking space is not always easy.
In addition to the blue lines, which line the Lungomare, you can opt for private car parks. The most handy and central one is the guarded Mandara car park, located not far from the Lungomare.
Tips
Since we mentioned 15 August (Ferragosto) right at the beginning of this article, the most heartfelt feast of the people of Maiori, dedicated to the Patron Saint, it is impossible not to remind you to taste two traditional specialities if your trip coincides with this special moment:
✅ Aubergine with chocolate, a traditional delicacy typical of Maiori, consisting of slices of fried aubergine covered in dark chocolate.
📣Trust a local: try them before turning up your nose. We guarantee you will love them!
If you want to know more, read our article dedicated to eggplant with chocolate: there you will also find the recipe for the two variants!
✅ The sandwich with spleen (‘o’ panino ca’ mevza’): here we get more into the specifics of Campania’s street food and it is probably not a dish that everyone will appreciate. If, however, you are a lover of the genre, don’t miss it: it is bovine spleen, cooked in vinegar and seasoned with parsley, garlic, chilli and mint.
Not everyone likes it, but those who do, are big fans!
