Positano is a state of mind.
And, no, it is not just a figure of speech.
As we also say in our complete guide, dedicated to the town of Positano, it is not easy to explain in words that entire set of sensations that come alive in the interiority of the traveller, when he finds himself immersed in the atmosphere of this town.
Let’s try to make an effort of imagination: you are arriving from the sea and you see in front of you the iconic scenery with the colourful little houses, clinging to each other, that seem to be embedded by the hand of a giant along the profile of the hill, plunging into the mirror of water in front of you.
You are already struck with awe at the uniqueness of the landscape, which reveals a splendid nature, embellished with delightful brushstrokes of the picturesque. Add to this the scent of the Mediterranean maquis and those characteristic colours – blue, green, white – that in each season of the year take different connotations, more or less brilliant intensities, without ever losing their charm.
Your heart is already enraptured and you have not yet even entered the town city centre of Positano, bustling, chaotic, swarming with life and travellers, just like you.
It is precisely Positano’s historic centre that will be the topic of this article: in the paragraphs you are about to read, you will find useful information to better organise your visit to Positano and its enchanting centre.
As always, there will be no lack of those little tips from locals that will help make your day in Positano truly special.
Table of Contents
Streets, alleys and stairways: what the city town centre of Positano is like
The centre of Positano is an intricate tangle of narrow streets, alleyways and stairways, to be explored strictly on foot, pausing here and there and enjoying the glamorous and lively atmosphere of one of the most visited places on the Amalfi Coast.
What do you find in the historic centre of Positano?
If you go in high season or on holidays and weekends from April to September-October, first of all, you find lots and lots of people.
Along the narrow streets and alleys you will come across numerous small boutiques and craft shops: a triumph of sartorial clothes, handmade sandals, objects of various kinds, small shops selling typical products and ceramics.
You will certainly be attracted by this explosion of colours and it will be impossible not to stop and photograph some particularly characteristic corner.
There is no shortage of bars and small restaurants where you can take a regenerating break or stop for a delicious meal.
If you want to stop and shop, don’t miss Positano Fashion style
Surely the temptation to stop and buy something will be strong.
If you really want to shop smart and take home something unique and precious, we recommend a few items of clothing from Moda Positano.
Positano Fashion was born at the end of the 1950s, just at the time when the vertical city began to attract tourists and travellers from all over the world.
The traditional fishing villages were slowly transforming into what they are today: worldly stages, where the desire to stand out was also expressed through clothing.
Faced with this new discerning clientele, local merchants reinvented themselves as tailors, creating unique and extravagant creations.
Using the available materials, such as jute cloth and lace, and drawing inspiration from traditional costumes, crocheted bikinis, flounced skirts and dresses that enhanced the silhouette, but were comfortable and elegant at the same time, were born.
Even today, more than 70 years later, walking through the centre of Positano becomes, among other things, an opportunity to buy unique garments and create one’s own style of clothing.
Among the truly typical purchases you can make in Positano, it is impossible not to mention the handmade sandals: they are generally low and flat, made of leather and hide, and 100% customisable to your foot shape.
They are ideal for walking down narrow streets and stairways, without giving up that touch of glamour, so in syntony with the surrounding atmosphere, not to mention the pleasure of taking home a handmade object made to measure for you.
The Church of Santa Maria Assunta
From Piazza Flavio Gioia, down another stairway, you can visit the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, with its majolica tiled dome, which has become iconic in Positano,
The present building, the result of a skilful 18th-century renovation, welcomes visitors with a warm and enveloping embrace. The interior, with three naves, is a triumph of gilded stuccoes, precious marbles and priceless works of art.
At the centre of it all is the Byzantine icon of the Madonna, devoutly venerated by the faithful of Positano. Her maternal gaze watches over sailors and villagers, offering them comfort and hope.
Among the numerous chapels dotting the church, the one of San Vito, which houses a valuable reliquary bust of the saint, and that of the Blessed Sacrament, embellished with a painting from the Charterhouse of Serra San Bruno, deserve special mention.
But the true beauty of the Church of the Assumption lies in its perfect harmony with its surroundings. From its panoramic terrace, there is a breathtaking view of the coastline, the crystal clear sea and the small islands dotting the horizon.
You can find an entire post dedicated to the Church of Santa Maria Assunta here.
The Roman Villa in Positano: a trip back in time, between a drink and a shopping stop
An unmissable experience for lovers of history and culture is the Villa Romana in Positano.
Indeed, beneath the striking bell tower of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta hides this unexpected treasure: a Roman Villa, which is a fascinating window on the past and takes you back in time to the first century AD.
Buried under the fury of the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD, the remains of the villa have been brought to light thanks to years of excavations and restoration, giving us a unique immersion into the daily life of ancient Rome.
The heart of this archaeological site is the triclinium, the dining room, where the vivid colours of the frescoes and the elegance of the mosaic floor transport us into an atmosphere of opulence and refinement. Here, wealthy Romans spent their moments of otium, enjoying the mild climate and breathtaking beauty of the Amalfi Coast, just as it happens to lucky visitors to Positano today.
But the Roman Villa is not limited to the triclinium. Descending into the crypts, we are taken on a journey through different eras. The upper crypt, above the Roman villa, takes us back to the Middle Ages, while the lower one reveals a more macabre aspect: the colatoi, the seats where corpses were drained, remind us of the fragility of life and the sacredness of the place.
Positano’s MAR, the Roman Archaeological Museum, which officially opened its doors in 2018, is not just a museum, but a treasure box of stories waiting to be discovered. The archaeological finds on display, including a fascinating bronze amphora and an evocative oil lamp, tell us about the daily life, habits and beliefs of the ancient Romans.
A place of great historical and cultural interest, undoubtedly worth a visit.
Opening hours and tickets
The MAR Museum is open:
🔹 from 1 April to 31 October from Monday to Sunday from 09.00 to 21.00
🔹 while from 1 November to 31 March visits begin at 10.00 and end at 16.00.
An entrance fee of 15€ is charged and can only be paid by card or cash card.
The beach at Marina Grande
Do you love the sea and the sun? Are you one of those who, before choosing a destination for your holiday, spends long afternoons looking for information on beaches not to be missed or possible boat trips to take?
Fear not: we’ve thought of you too!
After all, how could we forget Marina Grande, Positano’s iconic beach?
We are talking about a real jewel of the Amalfi Coast, a dream place where the crystal-clear sea blends with the breathtaking beauty of the surrounding landscape. The beach is about 300 metres long and made up of smooth pebbles, and is equipped with bathing establishments offering sunbeds, umbrellas and various services. There is also a stretch of free beach.
The beach can be easily reached on foot from the town centre, descending the picturesque steps that characterise the town. It would also be possible to get there by car, but given the high traffic and crowds, especially in summer, it is a solution we strongly advise against.
📣 Tip
If you plan to go to the beach, book your place on the beach well in advance, especially in high season, because the risk of being without a sunbed is very high!
Looking for more tips on unmissable beaches on the Amalfi Coast? Don’t miss this post!
The path to Fornillo beach
If you are looking for a slightly less busy beach, from the centre of Positano you should take the scenic path leading to Fornillo beach, offering enchanting views along the way as you walk through the Mediterranean bush.
At 300 metres long and with its smooth pebbles, Fornillo beach is a real gem: its crystal-clear, turquoise waters, ideal for swimming and snorkelling, will captivate you.
But you will also enjoy sunbathing in this beautiful setting, framed by high cliffs and overlooking the open sea.
Despite its peaceful atmosphere, Fornillo Beach offers all the services you need for a relaxing day: bathing establishments with sunbeds and umbrellas, bars and restaurants where you can enjoy local cuisine.
📣 Tips
In low-season (early summer) it certainly offers a less crowded place to spend a peaceful and relaxing day at the beach.
However, during the high season, Fornillo Beach is very crowded. Therefore, we recommend that you book your sunbed at one of the bathing establishments to guarantee you a front-row seat to enjoy the sun and sea.
As the sun goes down, the beach restaurants turn into romantic spots where you can enjoy a dinner of fresh fish and enjoy the view of the moonlit sea.
